The Amazon India Fashion Week kicked off at Jawahar Lal Nehru Stadium on Wednesday, marking the start of the fall/winter 2016 presentations by several Indian designers. A model displays a creation by Varun Bahl during the Amazon India Fashion Week in New Delhi. (Photo: PTI) The Amazon India Fashion Week kicked off at Jawahar Lal Nehru Stadium on Wednesday, marking the start of the fall/winter 2016 presentations by several Indian designers.With Varun Bahl, Gaurav Jai Gupta, Hemant and Nandita, Pallavi Mohan, Shantanu and Nikhil, Kiran Uttam Ghosh, Rina Dhaka and Gaurav Gupta showcasing, day one was a mixed bag of wintery and not-so-wintery collections in the bi-annual fashion fiesta.Jackets, bombers, tunics, slim trousers and A-line skirts set the tone for Varun Bahl’s catwalk show which featured his return to the ready-to-wear arena nearly after five years. Known for taking inspiration from flora and fauna, Bahl stuck to his key element – floral in his collection “Nocturne”. Borrowing the colour palette from the tropical forests of Gauguin, the collection comprised ivory, beige, teal, peach, mustard, olive, black, gold and pale rose. Gaurav Jai Gupta of Akaaro was next and his collection, “Mumuksha”, was a sartorial concoction.
He proved that he is still masterful at giving new shapes to coats, dresses, kurtas and dresses made in India with the most traditional of fabrics. The designer shaped his models with dresses, shirts and exterior capes using sheer silks, engineered cottons, hand-woven merino wools, tussar as well as matka silks and created a dramatic effect. Some outfits played with the idea of modern silhouettes in the form of panelled dresses, kaftans, shirtdresses, etc. but a few like saris and blouses were wedged to the traditional. Designer duo Hemant and Nandita’s show was a riot of colours. With bright midnight blues, earthy browns, deep reds playfully mingling with clashing polyester french terry m611001 shiny fabrics in a splash of gold, copper, bronze and other jewel tones in the form of embroideries, the duo sent models strutting down the catwalk in bold outwear with loose, droopy shoulder seams, deep V necklines, strappy shoulders and high (really high) slits along with oversized brushed wool and tweeds. Overall it was a fun collection and an excellent testament to India’s eclectic fashion scene. Post the show, the duo said, “We aimed at creating a practical collection and we hadused various kinds of fabrics to suit different climatic conditions in the country.
We noticed that in India, people don’t wear a lot of wool or fur and instead they prefer breathable fabric. So in this collection titled “The Dark Enchantress”, we melded wool with different fabrics such as chiffons, neoprene, etc. It is specifically aimed at Indian market and consumers.” The following shows saw designer Kiran Uttam Ghosh using silver to the best of her creativity and showcasing a collection named after the colour. Shantanu and Nikhil presented — “The Last Walk” – an array of gowns with brilliant ruffles, tulle skirts and capes. Rina Dhaka drew inspiration from early 90s and showcased a collection of sweater dresses, off shoulder knits and boat necks in blacks, golds, reds, and blues.Finally, Gaurav Gupta closed day one with a glam-packed line up of decadent gowns in nouveau drapes and cuts. For the coming season, the designer stuck to his signature elemental effect and golden sculpting on silhouettes and injected the clothes with a much darker, gothic vibe. Titled “Melt”, Gupta held his show outdoors with a theatrically long runway and showcased lots of ball gowns, asymmetrical jackets and frockcoats in flaming oranges, dark blazing blues, charcoal blacks, grays and pure whites. “In the wake of our city being called as one of the most polluted places in the world, I was shocked by the amount of people who participated in “Help Delhi Breather” campaign. I don’t claim to be all organic but it is a start for me. Most of this collection is zero waster and we have draped the entire width of a fabric in a given garment,” he said. In the end, imitating Alexander Wang and his signature post-show run, Gupta took the final bow.
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