You also have to have confidence to wear brocade. Before that, Banaras was renowned as a cotton weaving centre.”As with many potent looks, the key to pulling it off is about moderation. “Stick to one patterned item, and make it the centerpiece of your look. There’s a richness and luxury about it. It is one of the ultimate dandy fabrics. But it didn’t begin in Banaras until the 17th century. The ideal way to use it is in the form of embroidery, given its richness. Brocade weavers and patterns had arrived from Persia (modern-day Iran) via Gujarat and weavers kept arriving from Surat and Ahmedabad and settling in Banaras, displaced by natural calamities and the demise of royal workshops. Print-heavy pieces are one of the easiest to incorporate in your summer wardrobe. Instead, go for clean, structured lines in modern shapes such as a pencil skirt or blazer.Brocades are not restricted to Fall any more as well, says creative director of Divani, Sanya Dhir. Watch out for too much volume as it can make you look like an overstuffed armchair. It’s got a very sensual appeal because it’s almost 3D in the way it’s woven. No tufting or gathers. But these days the tactile, ornate material is as beloved of fashion designers as interior decorators..
It’s all about decoration,” she adds.”Admittedly, with its eye-catching patterns and often heavier feel, brocade isn’t the most forgiving fabric to wear. Considered to be one of the finest fabrics, brocade is making a rich comeback China Blue custom Polyester stretch Fabric Company on international runways in everything from craftily made spaghetti tops, brocade print on boldly-coloured furs at Mary Katronzou, prints used as burnt velvet on sheer silk at Simone Rocha and jackets and patchwork pieces at Burberry Prorsum. “Brocade — heavy, textured and dramatic — might spark thoughts of antique sofas or curtains in a drafty country house rather than of an elegant wardrobe. “Limit it to one piece,” suggest designer duo Diya Aroraa and Rajvvir Aroraa of the label DiyaRajvvir.” She adds, “Brocade can also be teamed with georgette and chiffon, fabrics that allow it to seamlessly adapt to not just structured garments but also fluid and flattering styles. A flippy skirt would look fab paired with a cosy cropped jacket and a moto jacket paired with skinnies in a warm hue is another great option,” they conclude.Brocade, an embossed woven-silk material shot through with metallic threads, has been worn to convey social status for centuries in places such as Byzantium, China, Italy and India. As the old expression goes, “Money talks,” well, so do clothes and fabrics.” About brocade’s India connect, designer Ritika Arya Jain shares, “In India, Banaras is considered to be the hub for brocading, or silk weaving. These days they can be found in many styles under various price brackets. You may also think it’s strictly for the evening but brocade dresses down quite nicely as well. They tell stories about our personalities, our income and our dreams. She asserts, “In fact, it is praised for its bi-seasonal potential.”This is what we call ‘old-school gone new’, thanks to designers, both Indian and international,” says designer Anupama Dayal about the fabric’s revival and comeback. Designer Dimple Raghani cautions, “You have to be careful if you are a healthy size, because it’s not the most slimming of fabrics
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